Was asked the other day to name the most under-rated restaurant in Belltown. In the sense of under-appreciated. Gotta be 94 Stewart. While across-the-street neighbor Steelhead Diner gets the buzz, newcomer Txori draws the avant-garde, and Tavolata attracts the trendy, 94 Stewart simply serves excellent food. Last night's cumin-rubbed lamb shank in a pinot noir reduction was just about perfect. And chef Cindy Nelson wasn't afraid to surround the meat with Brussels sprouts, either.
Granted, Lindsey Nelson's no longer on hand to manage the wine list (she's up at Coupage), but the kitchen remains in the good hands of her mom and her brother, Nic, who runs the remarkable cheese selection as well as a blog on the website, 94stewart.com. Hundreds of wines, literally, including great Barolos and Chiantis. Hundreds of favorable comment cards, literally, lining the back hallway. Highly recommended for the holidays, with a special $55 prix fixe menu.
Posted by Ronald Holden at December 20, 2007 10:54 AM
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French Chef Sally is my friend Sally McArthur, who hosts luxurious,
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