A tasting this week of kosher wines, sponsored by the Jewish Transcript in anticipation of Passover. Many observant Jews insist on serving wines that have been certified kosher [the wine making itself done by observant Jews], an attractive market for Royal Wine Company, among others. Royal, which owns the Baron Herzog brand and provided the tasting samples, is building a vast new facility in southern California to meet demand as the market shifts from sweet wines made from native varieties like concord [think Welchs grape juice] to dry wines from varieties like chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. My favorites were the Baron Herzog Russian River Chardonnay, which I found very Burgundian; and their Edna Valley Syrah, which smelled like violets and tasted like ripe berries. Ten years ago, this tasting would have been inconceivable; kosher wines have come a long, long way.
