One of the pleasant surprises of Sicily lies midway between the blue Mediterranean and crater of Mount Etna: vineyards! Not the Nero d'Avola of the island's southern hillsides nor the Marsala of the western shores; here, the grapes are indigenous to Etna's volcanic soil.
Vines share the slopes with olive groves and citrus orchards: red nerello mascalese, white cataratto, carricante and malvasia di Lipari. (The world being what it is, one also finds the ubiquitous cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.)
We stopped for a tasting and lunch in the village of Murgo at a winery called Tenuta San Michele (no relation to the Ste. Michelle folks in Woodinville), owned by Emanuele Scammacca, the baron of Murgo. Behind you rises the snow-capped volcano, in front of you lies the azure sea. And in your hand, a glass of sparkling Murgo Brut, a sprightly aperitif. What could be better?
The journey continues tomorrow: what should we eat?
