"Eating a variety of foods, for the French," says Sandra, "is like learning to read." Half-Argentinian, half French, she's part owner of a tour company that takes visitors to out-of-the-way places. So, being both literate and hungry, we walk through the Japanese quarter of Paris, behind the Palais Royal, between Louvre and Opera. Elegant, minimalist sushi joints everywhere.
It's just after noon, and already there's a line outside Higuma, a non-descript spot on the rue Sainte Anne that's often called the neighborhood's lunchroom; it's the most authentic lamen-ya--noodle parlor--in Paris. Businessmen, salarymen, Japanese regulars, local bargain-hunters hunch over steaming bowls of ramen dished up by terse, fast-moving waitresses. Huge, filling portions of noodles, vegetables, calamari, pork and broth. Delicious! And the tab is under $10, a heck of a deal in any language.
Higuma is popular (queues all day and all night) and is okay - for industrial stuff They work incredibly hard and the quality of Gyosas is very variable depending on what hour you are there. One always comes out with a massive thirst several hours later and one stinks of garlic and one's clothes stink of fried. Ten years ago I voted it in Saveur as my favourite place in the world to eat alone at the bar its not today ....... Sapporo - opposite on the corner is much cleaner fresher tasting food. Ã suivre.....
For me Lai-Lai Ken opposite the fire station is super top. More for the native Japanese (you can still smoke for another ten months!). Their Gyosas are terrific and the fried version - almost better than chocolate. Its much less a student joint and their is a certain scruffy elegance about the clientele and Matisse (posters & copies) adorn the wall of this discreet hangar. That's it mate Tim
Thanks all. Keeping up in Paris is good for the soul.