Syd Abrams spent a quarter century as a lobbyist for the California Wine Institute, monitoring wine-related legislation in 12 western states until he was forced out two years ago, at age 78. All along, he's also been a partner in eastern Washington's pioneering, 800-acre Sagemoor Vineyards, the largest independent grape grower in the state.
Looking out for his private interests now, Abrams finds it curious that Washington State's notoriously slack Liquor Board was letting one particular California producer get away with the enological equivalent of murder. Boxed "wine" from Franzia, specifically. Turns out, it's not even wine...an affront to legitimate producers, and a violation of the Liquor Board's own injunction against labeling that misleads consumers.
The phrase in question is "Table Wine With Natural Flavorings." In fact, says Abrams, the contents of the Franzia box should be called "Flavored Wine Product," which would require Franzia to list the ingredients (including whatever distilled products are used to provide the alcohol content; Abrams doubts that it's actually wine) and taxed as such. Franzia does provide a nutrition chart that skirts the question.
Meantime, Abrams' former employers at the Wine Institute and Franzia's attorneys have successfully lobbied the Liquor Board to ignore its own mandates (to collect taxes, to protect and educate the public etc.). At a recent meeting, the Board's legal advisor pooh-poohed the argument that Franzia's labeling was "misleading." No minutes were kept.
Modest and courtly, Abrams is personally offended. "It's not wine. It's not right."
