Branzino Without Branzino

"She sent the fish back!" says Peter Lamb of his new chef, Ashley Merriman (most recently at Brasa). "And, frankly, she was right."

So the "in paper" baked fish preparation on Branzino's opening night was halibut instead of Mediterranean sea bass (aka branzino). Mackerel and octopus were also on the menu, along with homemade mozzarella, lamb sausage, and asparagus in a rich, bacon-fat hollandaise.

We ordered Branzino's first Negroni from bartender Miles Thomas and look forward to tasting some of the pastas.

Branzino, 2429 Second Avenue, 206-728-5181. Website to come.