The Swinery: A Little Squab'll Do Ya

Seattle's own enfant terrible, Gabriel Claycamp (well, not exactly terrible but kinda naughty nonetheless, what with serving wine at his Culinary Communion cooking classes without the proper licenses) finally seems to have his shit together. That would be his pigshit, just so you know. Yes, the long-awaited Swinery, Temple of Porcine Love, is now open in West Seattle. Our friend Jacqueline Pruner sends these pix and this report.

Owner/Chef/Artisan Butcher Gabriel Claycamp – who really prefers to be called “Head Swine Guy” – has just opened Seattle’s first sustainable, artisan, butchershop and shop/delicatessen. That means, he says, locally-sourced, whole animals purchased from small farmers within 300 miles of the store and a commitment to certified organic whenever possible (otherwise as organic as possible). As such, Claycamp's goal is similar to the revitalization of organic farming and urban homesteading in reaction to large-scale factory farming: to bring back the exceptional flavor that’s lost with the mass-produced factory meats.

A true artisan butchery, the Swinery makes, bakes, smokes and cures its own products, such as: pâté de campagne (a rich pork pâté made with a cognac reduction); bacon-wrapped venison pâté en terrine (a stronger garlic, dark-meat taste); andouille sausage (a little sweet at the front, very complex in the middle, and just enough heat at the end); pastrami (a nicely marbled balance with fat that melts in your mouth and a spicy finish); Cajun-style tasso (smoked ‘n’ spicy pork shoulder that tastes like an exotic ham); prosciutto that is smoked 18 hours and aged two years; and chicken rillettes (bit bland but would herb-up nicely). And the word on the street is that the Swinery's house-made bacon is to die for. Bacon dogs and bacon burgers, too.

This is also the place to find the unique types and cuts of meat not normally readily available, such as squab (young pigeon). Wondering how to prepare squab? Fear not, for a computerized recipe kiosk is coming soon to The Swinery.

All this of course comes with higher prices, but fair, real prices nonetheless. After all, in a truly free market economy, particularly an artisan one, meat ain’t cheap. Nevertheless, their slogan is: “Everyone wants our meat in their mouths.”

Cornichon: Ya don’t say, Jacqueline?

Jacqueline: Now, now, Ronald … don’t be such a pig.