The sunny gent on the left, that's Lawrence Cronin. Irish father, so he's gregarious; Sicilian mother, so he's got taste and passion to spare. His job: enologist for Tenuta di Arceno, one of the Italian properties under the umbrella of California's Jackson Family Wineries. Purchased in 1994, Arceno encompasses almost 250 acres of vineyards, mostly sangiovese, and another 2,500 acres of forestland where deer graze and wild boar roam. Cronin runs a small crew that's responsible for some 30,000 cases of wine.
When Cornichon visited Tuscany a year ago, we stayed mainly in the northern half of the Chianti Classico zone, so Cronin's visit to Seattle was an opportunity to taste Chianti Classico wines from the southern part of the zone. They tend to be richer and riper, but Arceno is located at about an altitude of about 1,300 feet, and the elevation keeps things cool, even in the warmest years, with a good balance of power and finesse. "To understand our little corner of Tuscany," says Cronin, "you have to understand acidity." All three of the DOCG wines we sampled at lunch (at Il Terrazzo Carmine) had significantly higher acidity than wines from Bordeaux, by comparison.
The region's official regulatory body, the Consorzio of Chianti Classico growers, authorizes a regular Chianti Classico, a Riserva, and a Gran Selezzione, but Arceno has so far declined to produce one. "We age our reserve wines for 30 months at any rate," Cronin says. "We would rather be known for the regional typicity of our estate than for an arbitrary calendar."
In fact, the Gran Selezzione designation benefits the larger wineries that buy their grapes from multiple sources; it's not a particularly helpful label for smaller properties like Arceno that only use their own grapes at any rate.
Our lunch included a dish of Ravioli di Capriolo, capriolo being venison, with wild mushrooms. Rich and delicious! And by the way, Il Terrazzo is building out a little aperitivo bar to be called Intermezzo, on the First Avenue side of Merrill Place. Should be ready in a month or so.
Il Terrazzo Carmine, 411 1st Ave S., Seattle, 206-467-7797 
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