Look who's having a great season: Renée Erickson, that's who. Three spots, no less, within the same building on East Union: an utterly charming restaurant called Bateau, a super-sweet bar called Melusine, and a coffee shop called (groan) General Porpoise. The overall concept is Erickson's longstanding fascination with all things aquatic, hence the name of her company (with Jeremy Price and Chad Dale), SeaCreatures. Then again, their 30-acre property on Whidbey Island is called La Ferme aux Anes. So we have the slight cognitive dissonance that Bateau (French for boat) will serve beef from the donkey farm. The Melusine of folklore is actually a water sprite; think of the Starbucks mermaid and you'll get the picture.
What all is on the menu at Bateau? Well, octopus, sweetbreads, tartare, and the like. A pork chop, a butter-poached fish. Then five kinds of beef. Filet, onglet, bavette, New York, and the pièce de résistance (as the French would say): Côte de Boeuf, the double-thick, bone-in rib-eye. The Italians call this cut Fiorentina; it's also known as a tomahawk steak (though that just means the butcher doesn't saw off the long rib bone). Set you back $125, it will. The doughnuts are a far, far better deal.
By the way, no tipping needed, since there's an automatic service charge. Part of Erickson's move toward greater equity between front- and back-of-house employees as the economy moves toward a $15 minimum wage. The menu explains that there's a 20 percent service charge, 55 percent of which goes to the employees directly serving the customer. One assumes the balance goes to the rest of the staff.
Bateau, 1060 E. Union, 206-900-8808
Bar Melusine, 1060 E. Union, 206-900-8808
General Porpoise, 1060 E. Union, 206-900-8808
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