MODENA--Here in the heart of northern Italy's high-tech, high-design corridor, midway between Milano and Venice, a discreet sign on a quiet back street indicates the entrance to Italy's best restaurant, the Osteria Francescana, three Michelin stars.
Chef Massimo Bottura is playful and creative, the opposite of so many ego-driven, tweezer-wielding chefs these days. His ten-course (180 euros, about $200) tasting menu includes a deconstructed mortadella sandwich, a foie-gras ice cream bar, and a "dropped" lemon tart. His veal chop looks like the Damien Hirst spinning canvas on the dining room wall. Matching wines? Seven of them, all but one of them white, another 120 euros. There's a three-month waiting list; we only got in because of a cancellation. You're welcome.
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