January 3, 2006

What? No more caviar?

It's not Roe v Wade but illegally harvested sturgeon roe v CITES, the United Nations agency that regulates international trade of endangered species. (Link to New York Times article describing the CITES export ban; registration required.) Most of the Russian caviar on the market these days is black market anyway. Iran's production, under the control of a central, authoritarian government, is less vulnerable to poaching.

03cnd-cavi.184.jpg Caviar assortment at Portfolion Room tasting1.jpg
Tin of poached caviar (NYTimes photo); caviar & blini tasting in Seattle

The Emerald City is home to one of the country's most respected caviar houses, Seattle Caviar Company, a wholesaler and retailer whose caviar.com website offers a helpful primer on caviar. Owner Dale Sherrow gets his supplies through legitimate channels: his Iranian osetra, for example, costs $175 an ounce though supposedly similar products are available online from questionable sources at $35 to $65.

Though he's pleased that CITES has taken steps to control the black market, Sherrow knows it makes his whole industry look bad. But fear not: domestic, farm-raised species are spawning, and their eggs are tasty-tasty!
whitefish_spoon.jpg
Montana Golden Whitefish Caviar from Seattle Caviar Company

Further afield, caviar called Baerri, very similar to Sevruga, raised in the waters off Bordeaux, as well as white sturgeon roe from Italy. Can't wait.

Posted by Ronald Holden at January 3, 2006 10:34 PM