March 22, 2007

The flip side of glory

Paris, City of Light, is the color of a salmon's skin this early spring day, dark gray and bright silver. I'm slogging through the damp arcade of the Palais Royal in the unexpected chill.

Medals for sale in Palais Royal gardens.JPG

A fine March mist, almost snow, waters the formal gardens of the courtyard. I'm wearing a pair of uncomfortable loafers that keep eating my socks. Stomping awkwardly on the damp flagstones, I pass a tiny shop selling old military decorations. I used to buy charms and souvenirs here, enamel lapel pins of intertwined French and American flags. Today I see the faded ribbons and oversized medals and imagine a line of impoverished veterans, surrendering evidence of their honor, pawning their long-past heroism to buy a baguette and a glass of red. Le revers de la médaille, the flip side of glory.

A glint of sun and the scene changes; still cold, but suddently radiant, exhilarating. Off to lunch!

Posted by Ronald Holden at March 22, 2007 3:50 AM