November 21, 2008

Pitcher of Happiness; Picture of Gloom

BN%20at%20le%20Pichet.JPGFirst Avenue, third Thursday of November. Two guys, late twenties, turn into the doorway at Le Pichet. One's in a suit, the other's got his ponytail tucked into a droopy, loose-knit scrub cap. "Okay, time to speak French," he says. And he does. Waves across the jam-packed room to a well-dressed female acquaintance. "Bonsoir! J'arrive!"

Two versions of Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wine of the 2008 vintage.Jean-Paul Brun's Les Terres Dorées is poured from bottles; Joseph Drouhin's is drawn from a cute wooden barrel. A glass is $6, a four-glass pichet $22. Some years the wine's almost undrinkable, but this year is just fine. A happy, noisy crowd. Everything's $6: grilled venison sausages with currant chestnut butter on a baguette, pommes frites, heavenly coconut cream éclairs.

But isn't wine supposed to age for a while? Some, sure, but not all. Beaujolais Nouveau is made by carbonic maceration. Instead of a slowly fermenting a vatful of juice, Nouveau grapes ferment individually inside a closed tank; they literally explode with flavor. Even in a poor year (like 2008), carbonic maceration assures a decent wine. But then, it's not about the wine, it's about the party. You drink, you nibble, you schmooze.

"Formidable!" says the crocheted cap guy to a doe-eyed mademoiselle at the bar. She's smitten.
---
Smitten is the word (or maybe it's tetched) for Seattle Magazine, that workhorse of the Tiger Oak menagerie. Nothing to do with Beaujolais Nouveau, mind you, but the new issue, their Best of 2008 list, reads like a goddamn obituary column.

Best coach: Mike Holmgren (all but g-gone after a dismal season). Best new restaurant: Quinn's (opened in 2007). Best dance club: Neighbours (almost gone if you believe Slog). Best music venue: Showbox (the old one that may or may not be closing any day now). Best alternative weekly: The Stranger (the only alternative weekly, if we're not mistaken). Best local political blog: David Postman in the Seattle Times (long gone, never better than HorsesAss). Best local food blog: Bon Vivant (what? only two posts since July!). C'mon, Viv, you can't live on glory forever. (Cornichon isn't the least bit jealous).

Posted by Ronald Holden at November 21, 2008 8:00 AM | TrackBack

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