June 23, 2005

Takes Two

One to cook, one to eat, right?

tangofig.jpg Tango chef Michael Bruno.jpg La Gitana sherry label.jpg

At Tango, midway between downtown and Capitol Hill, the "cooker" is Michael Bruno. And the eaters are happy indeed. Take, for example, his smoked salmon ceviche: cured in salt, tequila and vanilla, served with onions, red peppers and wasabi beans. Normally $10, it's half-price during happy hour. Mojitos are also $5. My fave, though, is the driest of dry sherries, a Hidalgo "La Gitana" Manzanilla, served in a huge shot glass, $6.

Tango salmon ceviche.jpg Tango ceviche sampler.jpg

It was supposed to be a ceviche tasting, so we sampled the crab & portobello mushroom [with basil and habanero aioli], the mixta [clams, mussels, calamari and baby octopus in a horseradish-cucumber vinaigrette], the Ecuadorian [shrimp and scallops with tomatoes, avocado, lime and chiles] and the surf-&-turf [sirloin carpaccio dressed with lobster oil].

Ceviche is a catch-all for a style of South American "cooking" with citrus and other acids rather than heat, although sometimes there's a bit of poaching involved as well. And Chef Bruno isn't a purist about his recipes; he's inspired by the ceviche tradition, not just copying recipes.

We're not done by a long shot. Gotta try the Cheap Date [madjool dates wrapped in bacon, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, plated on slices of roast eggplant] and the lush, lush duck confit with spinach, fried onions, walnuts and a pomegranate vinaigrette.

Tango beef carpaccio .jpg Tango duck confit.jpg Tango gazpacho.jpg

Bruno's ["everybody just calls me Bruno"] take on gazpacho was the happiest thing about our time at Tango: a tasty blend of yellow tomatoes, bright canteloupe and smoky roasted garlic, drizzled with a bit of ancho chile oil and sherried vinegar.

Tango and its sibling, Bandoleone, are owned by Danielle Philippa. She sure knows how to run a restaurant: Tango's been around for almost ten years.

Posted by Ronald Holden at June 23, 2005 1:34 AM

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Ron you old dog - very nice production - bought my new computer just in time, so far have received four copies........ ? Is this the way you get to put "10 thousand subscribers" when you only sent it to 2.5 thousand...... Never mind. Its alright with me, especially since the computer has identified you as "SPAM" !

See you in Paris

TIM

Posted by: Tim Johnston at June 27, 2005 10:21 AM