January 12, 2006

Location, location, location

Now we're getting somewhere: a clear example of terroir. On one side of the road, the wine smells like violets, on the other side like kid gloves. Distinctions like that are no longer Burgundian; they're here.

Example: two wines from the same winemaker, L'Ecole No. 41, same basic "Bordeaux blend" of 90 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot, grown in Walla Walla Valley vineyards just 10 miles apart, but with markedly different profiles. If they're siblings, one of them's the evil twin ...

Apogee Perigee bottles1.JPG

Apogee (the furthest point from earth on the lunar orbit) comes from Pepper Bridge Vineyard, planted on ice-age deposits. Spicy, forward fruit, aggressive tannins.

Perigee (nearest the earth) comes from Seven Hills Vineyard, planted on rich, wind-blown aloessial soil. Elegant, balanced, firm, with black fruit and tobacco overtones.

pepperbridge_vineyard.jpg sevenhills.jpg
Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards: close, but no cigar.

Let's be clear: while I much prefer the Perigee, both sell for the same price, between $45 and $50 depending on the retailer.

So it's really one for the wine geeks. Elegant vineyard profile (link to PDF) here; graphic soil profile below. Da rest of youse can move on.

Posted by Ronald Holden at January 12, 2006 9:51 PM

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Comments

So why did the vintner cross the road?
To get to the nuances on the other side.

Finally, a good use for the geological science that I took to avoid biology... Except, I find myself returned to the biological or perhaps in this case, the vine-o-logical...Makes me think of how the flavor of honey,is informed by the types of flowers or trees that the bees visit...
Also makes me think of my childhood, and the earthy girl next door who ate dirt---never had much interest in the ultimate source of a fine wine's notes...I much prefer tasting the wine, don't you?

Posted by: Ella Rose at January 13, 2006 6:15 AM