March 28, 2006

Travel notebook: Tuesday

Ysios winery.jpg Cantabrian mountains behind Ysios winery.jpg

Cantabrian massif shelters the Rioja Alavesa, keeping clouds at bay; sun shines bright. Ysios winery down the road from Laguardia designed by architectural wunderkind Santiago de Calatrava, is part of the Domecq conglomerate. Only fair: Spain's Ricardo Bofil does pioneering circular cellar for Lafitte-Rothschild, Ysios gets semi-circular cellar plus undulating roof and craggy prow that echo the nearby mountains.

View into Ysios barrel room.jpg Ysios barrel room.jpg View from Ysios to Laguardia.jpg

Highlight is lunch at Remelluri winery. Leeks in garlicky vinaigrette. Patatas con chorizo, a hearty potato soup, is enlivened by a crunchy, green Ibarra pepper. Baby lamb chops, grilled over vine clippings, are fingerlickin' delicious. Pears poached in wine are brilliant purple, offset by fragrant orange slices. A cordial called Pacharan brings the feast to a sweet, cherry-berry conclusion.

Leeks at Remelluri lunch.jpg Patatas con chorizo.jpg Grilled lamb cutlets.jpg
Pears in red wine.jpg Pacharan liqueur.jpg

Dinner novelty: white Txacoli made from hondarribi zuri, a tart, inoffensive, indigenous Basque variety. Pleasant enough with appetizers. Learn something every day.

Modest scorecard today. One white, three reds (all tempranillo), one liqueur.

Posted by Ronald Holden at March 28, 2006 2:28 PM

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